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Thursday, June 24, 2010

Dining at the chef's table At The London

I'll start by saying that beyond the meal, which was incredible, this was a fantastic experience.  Dining at the chef's table is something completely different than just eating a restaurant.  Beyond the food and the wine there is the kitchen and the chefs.  For each course the chef that prepared it came out to explain what went into that specific dish.  The attention to detail regarding both the food and the group I was with was astounding.   So now, onto the food.


Amuse bouche
Olive paste on celery
melon soup shot with  crème fraîche

Selection of canapés 

 I suppose that after this it's safe to say that I'm not a fan of olives.  It's obviously not the preparation but the actual flavor.  I did not care for the olive paste.  The shot of melon soup not only cleared the olive from my tongue but was delicious.  It wasn't sweet but rather creamy.  Perfectly set up my palette for the canapés.  For the life of me I cannot remember what went into them by they were light and delicious.

Seared hamachi and uni with squid vinaigrette

 The hamachi was great.  Just fatty enough, soft texture, not fishy at all.  This was offset by the fishiness of the uni.  The hamachi faded a bit while the uni lingered but not in an unpleasant way.  Just strong.

Sautéed Hudson Valley foie gra, cippolini artichoke, foie gras ice cream with shaved truffle served with toast

This was a bit of a shock.  The ice cream on the left was very salty on its own while the artichoke and foie gra was much more mild.  It seemed overpowering and an odd choice until combined together and eaten on the toast.  The salty from the truffles mixed with the butter foie gras.  My only complaint is that I think there was too much truffle in the mix.  At times it was a little overpowering.

paired with Riesling Spaetlese, Schloss Vollrads, Rheingau 2005
 One of the smoothest sweet wines I have ever had.  It wasn't mouth puckering sweet but was still a very strong fruit bouquet.  The finish was smooth beyond measure.  Highly recommended.

Maine diver scallops, pressed octopus, white asparagus, crispy potatoes, grilled watermelon
On the way over the the London we were discussing what foods we didn't like, though agreed to try everything served.  My named food was scallops.  I have never liked scallops.  Well, they served scallops and this is up with the beef course as one of my two favourite dishes of the night.  It tasted as scallops have never tasted to me before and the watermelon complimented it.  The octopus was dense but not chewy.  Each part of this dish was great and together was amazing.

paired with Viognier, Triennes, Sainte Fleur 2008
I believe that this is the wine that tasted strongly of apricot.  The crispness of it went very well with the seafood.

Caramelized veal sweetbreads, lemon poached endive, marinated spring onions, English peas
Well, I've tried sweetbreads.  The onions lent an nice edge to the soft flavor of the sweetbreads.  The taste was actually tasty.  The soft texture is what took me out of completely loosing myself in this one. More interesting than great but still damn good.

paired with Weingut Knoll, Loibner, Federspiel, Wachau 2007

Mediterranean sea bass wrapped in eggplant and stuffed with ratatouille, crème fraîche gnocchi, Meyer lemon and crispy garlic, tomato and gin consommé
This was the other surprise for me that night.  Normally I don't like cooked fish because it becomes flaky and sometimes fishy tasting.  This had a mild sea flavor which was perfectly augmented by the tomato and gin consommé, which was the secret heart of this course.  The eggplant had a great texture to it that really pulled the fish together and the ratatouille in the center made for a perfect finish to each bite.

paired with Jean-Noël Gagnard, Les Masures 2007

Triple seared dry aged NY strip loin, smoked beef tongue and broccoli, romanesco, tamarind sauce
The cube of tongue is hidden between the broccoli and the strip.  It was great.  Incredibly smoky and verged on too much but since it was just one small cube it was just enough.  The aged strip loin was essentially a perfect piece of beef.  It tasted like meat rather than spices.  It was tender.  It was cooked just enough to be considered cooked all the way through.  Wonderful.

paired with Bodegas Mas Alta, Artigas 2005

Brillat-Savarin, truffle honey, candied almonds
 The almonds went wonderfully with this butter-like cheese.  My one complaint is that, once again, it tasted as if there was just a bit too much truffle in the honey.  I know, to complain about too much truffle, right?

White chocolate with lime, mango and coconut
 A number of people thought this was the dessert.  The coconut crème fraîche on top was fantastic.  It didn't have that dry element that a lot of coconut tends to.  The mangos and lime were fantastic, and the white chocolate on the bottom was so creamy and delicious that I didn't mind it being (falsely) called chocolate.  That means it was really good.

Vanilla parfait with passion fruit curd, young coconut water and sorbet, coriander
It's hard to see but they poured coconut water into the bottom of the bowl so it soaked up.  This was delicate and delicious and the passion fruit curd is wrapped up in extremely thin sliced mango.  Eating those pouches put a fantastic closing fruit flavor to a soft pelleted dish.

Single-origin Venezuelan chocolate mousse, passion fruit, balsamic reduction and crème fraîche sorbet
 My favourite dessert of the two.  The chocolate mousse was slightly on the dark and bitter side, exactly how I like my chocolate.  The passion fruit matched that perfectly and, like a negative of the previous dessert, the crème fraîche was a smooth and light finish to an incredibly rich and striking chocolate dessert.

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